Paddling at Espiritu Santu and Danzante Islands

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Saturday, March 10  Kayaking to island 25 miles

Today was perfectly calm, so I decided to paddle again to Espiritu Santu Island.  I hoped to go further than I had before, and perhaps go all the way around it, which would probably take two days.  To give myself that option, I packed plenty of water and food, but took only the bare minimum for camping—no tent, sunshade, or cooking gear.  I learned my lesson from the previous trip, about taking too much cumbersome gear.  Still, packing took some time, so I didn’t leave till about 10:45 am.

I made good time across to the island, then continued along the east coast. 

Camping at Playa Tecolote near La Paz, BCS

Dunes of Tecolote Beacch, a bit E of the camping area--

looking N to Espiritu Santu Is.

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The beach is at the end of the paved road, about la 30 minute drive north from La Paz.  Simply drive north along the Malecon, and it turns into the road to several beaches, including Tecolote.  The beach is about a mile long, facing Isla Espiritu Santu, which is separated from the mainland by about 3.5 miles.

Playa Tecolote--paddling, cleanup, and desert hike

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Sunday, Feb . 26

Today, I took a much deserved rest—like an old dog, lying in the sun on the porch.  I just lay in the trailer, listening to music on my Ipod for much of the day.   In the morning, I took a brief stroll around the beach, and noticed the immense amount of trash strewn about in the desert behind the beach.  I was even half-heartedly thinking I should organize a volunteer party to pick some of it up.  But it seemed futile, if the Mexicans didn’t seem to care. 

Overnight on an enchanted island

Friday, Feb. 24--headed for Isla Espiritu Santu

I got up shortly after dawn, to find the sea and winds calm.  I was headed for the island today, but first, I had a long list of preparations.   Things to find, and drybags to pack.  Sandwiches to make… water bottles to fill… prepping the trailer and car for my absence.

So I didn’t get off till noon.  The wind had come up a bit and shifted to a headwind, with some whitecaps.  But it wasn’t stiff enough to make paddling especially hard.  I crossed an hour and forty minutes, indicating the distance of about 3.5 miles.   The crossing was to the north—and I had decided to paddle on the west side of the island, where there were more sheltered bays.  I thought the terrain would be more varied and interesting.

The first bay had a fish camp near the point—two low huts made mostly of scraps.    They appeared unoccupied.  Beyond was a long beach with a shore sloping quickly upward to a low row of dunes.  This was already occupied by two kayaks, so I paddled on.

I explored the next larger bay.  It had a small patch of dwarf mangroves, a long, sandy beach, and was very shallow.

I headed on to the next bay larger still.  It was very grand, surrounded on the north side by an amphitheater of impressive bluffs and low mountains, all shades of buff, pink, or dark lava. 

Carnival in La Paz

Monday Feb 20

I got up before dawn, took a walk taking photos along the beach, then drove to La Paz.  It took about 3 hours from Insurgentes.   I stopped en route to have a taco (not very good at a roadside shack in the desert) and to take photos of cactus personalities.

When I arrived, I was very tired, feeling almost sick.  I napped before going to the parade.   Afterward, I showered, and felt much better.

Tuesday-Thursday, Feb. 21-23

Without a phone, I found it almost impossible to connect with the three people I had found on Couch Surfers.  The internet wasn’t always working, and they might not respond for several days.  I didn’t want to hang around La Paz waiting for something that might or might not develop, so I gave up on contacts.

Carnival in La Paz

Everyone knows I come to Baja to see the marine life.

Tijuana to San Ignacio

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Friday, February 17

I crossed the border in the morning with little trouble, except for a long wait to get the trailer inspected.  The Mexicans are more vigilant now than two years ago, looking for both drugs and guns.  The inspectors here were three pretty but professional young women.  One was working with a German shepherd.  I didn’t see a dog go into the trailer, but somewhere down the road, I noticed a suspicious lick mark on my formerly clean full-length mirror. 

From Wisconsin to the border

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February 11, 2012--Departure

I left Madison late in the afternoon on Saturday, Feb. 11.  It’s taken two good weeks of hard preparations.