4/13/2010

Stopping at Zion National Park on the way back

It was raining in the San Diego area when I crossed the border; then I encountered high winds in the desert on the way to Las Vegas.  In a few places visible from the highway, there were huge clouds of blowing dust and sand.  Fresh snow was magnificent on the mountains surrounding St. George, Utah.

It took me four days to drive back to Wisconsin from Ensenada--plus one and a half hours on Friday morning.  I met Liz at a Donald County Park, where we checked bluebird boxes.

I could have made the trip faster, if I hadn't stopped for a day hike in Zion National Park.  I started on the Subway hike (the left fork), which is considered one of the special hikes in Zion.  It's into a beautiful slot cannon.

However, I didn't pick the best day.  Temperatures were in the 50s, but down in the subway, there was lots of water in the creek, and a wind in the 40s was blowing through the tube.

The Subway of Zion in early April.  Burr.

The round trip was about 12 miles.  The trail along the creek is extremely bad, nearly non-existent.  You have to cross the brimming creek many times.  Finally, as you approach the subway, you have to walk in the freezing water, over rocks which are extremely slippery.  Because of these obstacles, I only peeked into the subway proper.

With less water and higher temperatures later in the year, the Subway hike would be a delight, although still very strenuous.  Permits are required for even a day hike into the subway.

On my return, Liz asked me if there was anything about my trip that I enjoyed least?  I replied that "It was the subway hike."

Hiking in the cold, I was reminded of some of my earlier "Zion Noir" experiences... with the dark side of Zion.

Some conclusions from my trip

Upper California seems like a foreign country, compared to Wisconsin.

You can drive to the Central Desert of Baja (my favorite part), in four days from Wisconsin.

Cabo San Lucas is more interesting than most resort towns I've seen in Mexico.

Lover's Beach, at Cabo San Lucas, is the second most fabulous beach I have seen, next to Wineglass bay in Tasmania.  Take away the boats, and it could be first.

Mexicans are wonderful, friendly, and honest people.

Baja is safe (except for the highway).  Most of what you hear is hype.

The US is responsible for most of the violence, guns, and drugs along the border.

Montezuma's revenge seems to be a thing of the past.  Enjoy the tacos!

If Mexico has a backward culture, then why are there so many Mexican restaurants in the US, and so few McDonald's and Denny's restaurants in Mexico?

The central desert of Baja is one of the most fantastic botanical spectacles in the world.

You hear a lot about Mexican corruption--but it's less than peanuts compared to Wall Street and Washington.

Baja may be one of the funkiest places in the world.  The Peninsula with Personality.

Baja has great scenery, especially along the Sea of Cortez.  But the desert scenery in the Southwestern US is even grander, and a lot closer.

On a road trip, you see a lot of strange things--like this airplane on a trailer, headed for some scrap yard.

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